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‘ROUND TRIP TICKET’
First news about the three American climbers already recovering in Kathmandu. Its new route is called ‘Round trip ticket’, it climbs 2,700 meters of altitude and overcomes difficulties of M7, AI5+, A0.
Alan Rousseau, Jackson Marvell and Matt Cornell recover in Kathmandu after their expedition to the north side of let us say (7,711 m). The first two have had to go to the hospital, although they have not given details about it. Yes, they have begun to report on their ascension, performed over seven days in Alpine style.
Their new route as they have called Round trip ticket It rises up to 2,700 meters of height on this impressive slope. According to a brief account Alan Rousseau On their social network, the line shares a good part of the terrain with the Russian route from 2004, up to approximately 7,000 meters. From there until they joined the southwest ridge at 7,500m, they faced a virgin section that presented them with the toughest and steepest obstacles of the entire ascent. “It was here that we experienced the most intense wonderful mixed climbing any of us would have had the pleasure of participating in.”he points out.
His agency, Grand Himalaya Treks & Expedition, announced the news yesterday, although he got one of the team’s names wrong, placing Mike Gardner instead of Matt Cornell. The expedition was split into two groups, and as the trio made their way to the north side, Mike Gardner and Sam Hennessey they went to Jannu Este. According to the latest information, they were already on their way back to Kathmandu.
Third time lucky
This was the third American expedition to the north side of Jannu. Jackson Marvell and Alan Rousseau They had already tried it on two previous occasions, in 2021 and 2022. On the last expedition they were also joined by Matt Cornell. “For three years I had been trying to climb the north face of Jannu alpine style with Matt and Jackson,” noted Alan Rousseau, who claims that “This 2,700 meter north face created a lot of doubt and anxiety in me. In the end everyone did their part and we climbed the hill in a style that we are very proud of.”.
In that sense Matt Cornell shared: “We dived into what we thought was possible and returned with a profound experience. “Consumed by the events of the climb, we lost our sense of individuality.”.
The Russian precedent
As American mountaineers comment, their route reverses the line opened by a large Russian expedition led by Alexander Odintsov in the spring of 2004, and which gave them the Piolet d’Or 2005.
Alexander Ruchkin and Dmitry Pavlenko They completed the ascent performed in a team task in heavy style on May 26, 2004. They drew a direct line that cuts right through the middle of the vertical north face, suggesting collapsed sections in its final stretch. Nikolay Totmyanin, Sergey Borisov, Gennady Kirievsky, Alexey Bolotov, Mikhail Pershin, Mikhail Mihailov, Ivan Samoylenko and Mikhail Bakin They completed that expedition.
