Mikel Zabalza, Iker Madoz and Juan Vallejo, 50 meters from the top of Phurbi Chhyachu

The experience gathered in hundreds of expeditions, the circumstances they experienced on the exposed and technical summit ridge and intuition have made them turn around. Despite having done the hardest. They had the top off Phurbi Chhyachu (6,637 meters) within reach, only 50 meters height difference, a few hours of effort, but the man from Alava Juan Vallejo Llanos and the Navarrese Iker Madoz Campistegui y Mikel Zabalza Azcona They have decided on October 25 to step down and not expose themselves more than necessary.

On the scales, the risk for a night trip, in bad weather and more than complicated in a very difficult terrain, with several descents and very demanding steps, has weighed more than the fact of signing the second repetition of history – the first in a light style, carrying all material on the back – for this remote control summit Jugal Himalon the border between Nepal and China.


“Hard day with conditions and cold. We have finished the route, but we have not gone to the top. It was very bad. We stayed about 50 meters from the top and it was easy“, Zabalza acknowledged in a message he sent as soon as he returned to the position where the trio had been able to set up shop last Tuesday. A location, in principle and according to his idea, on the central spur of the mountain and not the route along the southwest ridge, as the Japanese heavy expedition that signed the only peaks in Phurbi Chhyachu in May 1986.

Now, after spending the night in the shop, he continues a delicate descent to reach Base in one or two dayswhich they must dismantle on the 28th or 29th to return to Kathmandu and take the plane back to Spain

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